Trailer Hitch Classes Explained: Class 1 to Class 5
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Receiver hitches are sorted into five classes. The class tells you two things at a glance: how much the hitch is rated to tow, and what size receiver opening it has. Pick the wrong class and either your trailer is over the hitch's limit, or your accessories won't fit the receiver.
Hitch classes at a glance
| Class | Receiver size | Max gross trailer weight | Max tongue weight | Typical vehicles |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Class 1 | 1-1/4" | up to 2,000 lb | up to 200 lb | Cars, small crossovers |
| Class 2 | 1-1/4" | up to 3,500 lb | up to 350 lb | Midsize cars, crossovers, minivans |
| Class 3 | 2" | up to 8,000 lb | up to 800 lb | SUVs, half-ton pickups |
| Class 4 | 2" | up to 10,000 lb | up to 1,000 lb | Full-size SUVs and pickups |
| Class 5 | 2" or 2-1/2" | up to 20,000 lb (varies by model) | up to about 2,700 lb | Heavy-duty pickups, commercial trucks |
Ratings are the maximums for each class as published by CURT. An individual hitch can be rated lower — always read the label on the hitch itself.
The rule that matters most: the lowest rating wins
A hitch rating is only one link in the chain. Your safe towing limit is the lowest of:
- your vehicle's towing capacity (in the owner's manual),
- the hitch's rating,
- the ball mount's rating,
- the hitch ball's rating,
- and the trailer coupler's rating.
A Class 4 hitch on a vehicle rated to tow 5,000 lb is still a 5,000 lb setup.
Class 1 and Class 2: light towing and accessories
Class 1 and 2 hitches use a 1-1/4" receiver. They suit small utility trailers, light cargo carriers and hitch-mounted bike racks. Many cars and crossovers can only take a Class 1 or 2 hitch because of how their frame and bumper are built. Browse Class 1 hitches and Class 2 hitches.
Class 3: the most common hitch
Class 3 is the everyday hitch for SUVs and pickups, with a 2" receiver that takes the widest range of ball mounts, bike racks and cargo carriers. It covers most boats, campers and utility trailers that a half-ton truck or mid-size SUV is rated to pull. See Class 3 hitches.
Class 4: heavier trailers on the same 2" receiver
Class 4 keeps the 2" receiver but raises the rating to 10,000 lb. It's the step up for larger travel trailers and equipment trailers on full-size trucks and SUVs. At these weights you should also look at a weight distribution hitch. See Class 4 hitches.
Class 5: heavy-duty towing
Class 5 hitches are built for heavy-duty pickups and commercial trucks. Some use a 2" receiver and others a 2-1/2" receiver, and ratings reach up to 20,000 lb depending on the model. For the very heaviest loads, a fifth wheel or gooseneck hitch in the truck bed is usually the better fit. See Class 5 hitches.
How to choose your hitch class
- Find your vehicle's towing capacity in the owner's manual.
- Weigh or look up your loaded trailer — the gross trailer weight, not the empty weight.
- Estimate tongue weight at 10–15% of that figure (how to measure tongue weight).
- Choose a hitch class whose ratings cover both numbers, without exceeding your vehicle's limit.
- Check the receiver size matches the accessories you already own (receiver sizes explained).
Hitches are built for specific vehicles. Add your vehicle with the selector at the top of the page and the store shows the hitches listed for it. If a trailer is heavy enough to need its own brakes, check the rule for your province in our trailer brake guide.
Common questions
Can I tow more by putting a bigger ball mount on my hitch?
No. The system is limited by its weakest part. A heavier-rated ball mount doesn't raise the hitch's or the vehicle's rating.
Do I need a Class 3 hitch for a bike rack?
Not necessarily. Many racks come in 1-1/4" and 2" versions. The hitch's tongue weight rating must cover the rack plus the bikes, which matters most with heavy e-bikes.
Class ratings: CURT — Types of trailer hitches and hitch classes, checked September 2026.